On returning to Lima I spoke to my
driver Pablo and contacted Best Peru Travel by email. They eventually agreed
to refund me for the cancelled trip to Lake Titicaca and the vistadome train
from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, and that I would not be charged for the extra
time spent in Lima. I was taken
on a tour of Pachacamac, but the weather was overcast and it matched my
rather foul mood at the time.
I had an early night as I was to be
picked up at 4am for my bus ride to Nazca.
The bus left Lima at 4.20a and arrived
in Nazca at 11am. I was met by a man driving a huge 70s Dodge and driven to
the airport office where I dropped my bag before being taken to the airport
for my flight over the Nazca lines.
The Nazca Lines are a series of
geoglyphs in the Nazca Desert. There are hundreds of individual figures,
ranging in complexity from simple lines to stylized spiders, hummingbirds,
monkeys, fish, llamas, and lizards. The lines were 'discovered' in 1939,
when an American scientist Paul Kosok flew across the desert and noticed the
lines and figures etched below.
There are a number of fanciful
theories regarding the nazca Lines. One notorious idea by Erich von Däniken
is that the Nazca Lines were landing strips for alien spaceships.
The lines were made by making furrows
about 8-12 inches deep in the reddish-brown gravel that covers the surface
of the desert, revealing the light-coloured earth beneath which contrasts
sharply against the surrounding desert. Even though the Nazca Lines were
made around 1500 years ago the lack of wind and dry desert temperatures have
help keep the lines from deteriorating. The Pan-American highway and several
dirt tracks cut across some of the lines.
One thing you will discover in Peru;
if a plane leaves the ground, no matter how small, you will pay a departure
fee.
The sight of the little 6 seat Cessna
made me feel uncomfortable. I have no problem flying in huge jet
aircraft, but light aircraft bring out the fear of flying in me. This was
made worse when I discovered I was in the front seat next to the pilot.
Take off was ok but once airborne and
over the Nazca Lines the pilot banked sharply to enable us to enjoy the view
and I was scared! It took me a couple of minutes to compose myself enough to
take photos.
I had expected to visit the pre-Inca
desert cemetery site of Chauchila, with 1500 year-old mummies, and bones,
after my flight over the Nazca lines, but apparently there wasn't time. I
was driven off to the bus station without stopping at the airport office and
I had to remind the driver of my left luggage.
The driver had dropped me at the wrong
bus station, but fortunately I discovered the mistake and it was only 3
blocks walk to the correct bus stop, where I caught a bus to Paracas. |